Why the Best Craft Breweries Are Returning to Lager and Why It’s Harder Than You Think
For years, in the craft beer world, Lager was considered the beer of large industrial groups. That anonymous, filtered, pasteurized beer served ice-cold to hide its lack of character.
Craft breweries made IPA, Stout, Saison, Sour. Everything except Lager.
Then something changed. Today, the most interesting breweries in Europe and America are putting bottom fermentation back at the center of their catalog. Not out of nostalgia. Out of challenge.
The Paradox of Craft Lager
Lager is technically the most difficult beer to brew well.
It seems counterintuitive. Lager is "simple," right? Few ingredients, a clean profile, no exotic aromas to hide behind.
And that’s exactly the problem.
An IPA with 80 IBU and aggressive dry-hopping can mask small fermentation flaws under a cascade of aromas. A Lager forgives nothing. Every off-flavor is exposed, every fermentation imperfection is noticeable. Diacetyl, sulfur, acetaldehyde — defects that go unnoticed in a hoppy beer — jump immediately to the nose in a clean Lager.
Making a quality craft Lager requires:
- Bottom-fermenting yeasts that work at temperatures between 8°C and 12°C, much slower than ale yeasts
- Long fermentations: at least 4–6 weeks, compared to 7–10 days for many ales
- Lagering: a cold maturation period (near 0°C) that can last weeks or months, during which the beer refines, clarifies, and develops that characteristic cleanliness
- Precise temperature control: dedicated equipment, refrigeration rooms, significant investments
For a small craft brewery, making Lager means tying up fermenters for weeks. It’s a real cost. Those who do it, do it out of conviction.
The Italian Pils Phenomenon
In Italy, this return to bottom fermentation has produced one of the most original styles of recent years: the Italian Pils.
It’s not a simple copy of the German or Bohemian Pilsner. It’s a hybrid style, internationally recognized, that combines:
- The cleanliness and dry body of the German tradition
- A generous use of Italian and continental hops (Hallertau Blanc, Saphir, Mandarina Bavaria) that bring floral, citrus, and herbal notes
- An unusual cold hopping (dry-hopping) for a Lager, adding aromatic complexity without weighing down the body
The result is a beer with the drinkability and freshness of a Lager, but the aromatic complexity of a Pale Ale. Refreshing in summer, interesting all year round.
Breweries like Birra del Borgo, Extraomnes, Birrificio Italiano, and dozens of smaller producers have helped define and spread this style, which is now produced and appreciated beyond Italy as well.
Why It’s Happening Now
The return to craft Lager is no coincidence. There are at least three structural reasons:
1. The saturation of IPAs. After years of hoppy beer dominance, many enthusiasts are looking for something different. Craft Lager offers complexity without palate fatigue.
2. Market maturity. Craft beer consumers have grown. Those who started with Hazy IPA now want to explore more technical and nuanced styles. A well-made Lager is a challenge for the educated palate.
3. Technical challenge as value. The most ambitious craft breweries seek difficulty, not ease. Lager has become the proving ground of production maturity: if you can make a clean, characterful Lager, you can make beer.
How to Recognize a Quality Craft Lager
Not all craft Lagers are the same. Here’s what to look for:
- Absolute cleanliness on the nose: no sulfur, butter (diacetyl), or green apple (acetaldehyde) odors
- Dry body and clean finish: Lager should not be sweet or heavy
- Bright carbonation: contributes to freshness and drinkability
- Clear but not aggressive bitterness: present, recognizable, but never dominant
- Freshness: like hoppy IPAs, craft Lager should be drunk fresh. It’s not a beer for aging.
Lager Is the New Frontier
In the craft beer world, making an excellent Lager has become the new status symbol. Not because it’s trendy, but because it’s honest: it hides nothing. It tells you exactly how good the brewery that made it is.
And when it’s done well — clean, fresh, aromatic, with that dry finish that calls for the next sip — it’s simply one of the most beautiful things beer can offer.
→ Explore our selection of craft Lager and Italian Pils
In our catalog, you’ll find a curated selection of Italian and international craft Lagers, chosen from breweries that have made bottom fermentation a philosophy — not a shortcut.
