The Beers of Cologne and Düsseldorf: Kölsch vs Altbier, the Beer Rivalry of the Rhine
While in Italy we are busy snubbing small beers and reserving the most creative intimidations for those who order one, in two of the most important cities in Germany (because they are closest to Belgium) beer is drunk in 20cl glasses. In Cologne the Kölsch and in Düsseldorf the Altbier.
The first are clear and very bright, the second coppery and not always brilliant. Beers that among many qualities have the ability to regenerate in your glass that was empty just a second before. Let’s discover together this unique beer tradition, the centuries-old rivalry between two cities, and the beers that represent them.
Cologne vs Düsseldorf: A Centuries-Old Rivalry
The History of the Rivalry
Cologne (Köln) and Düsseldorf are two cities in North Rhine-Westphalia, only 40 km apart, but separated by a thousand-year rivalry that shows in everything: football, carnival, dialect, and especially beer.
Origins of the rivalry:
- Middle Ages: Commercial competition on the Rhine
- 1288: Battle of Worringen (Cologne vs Düsseldorf)
- Following centuries: Political, economic, cultural rivalry
- Today: Friendly but intense rivalry (especially about beer!)
Beer as Identity
For the citizens of Cologne and Düsseldorf, beer is identity, pride, and tradition:
- In Cologne, only Kölsch is drunk
- In Düsseldorf, only Altbier is drunk
- Ordering the "wrong" beer in the "wrong" city = provocation!
Kölsch: The Beer of Cologne
What is Kölsch
Kölsch is a top-fermented beer (Ale) but cold matured like a Lager. This makes it unique: a hybrid between Ale and Lager.
Technical features:
- Type: Top-fermented Ale, cold-conditioned
- Color: Pale golden, very clear
- ABV: 4.4-5.2%
- IBU: 18-30 (delicate bitterness)
- Fermentation: Top (18-22°C) + cold maturation (0-8°C)
Sensory Profile
Appearance:
- Pale golden, bright, crystalline
- White, compact, persistent foam
Nose:
- Delicate malt (bread, biscuit)
- Herbaceous, floral hops (noble German hops)
- Light fruity notes (esters from top fermentation)
Taste:
- Clean, refreshing, drinkable
- Delicate, slightly sweet malt
- Moderate, balanced bitterness
- Dry and clean finish
- Light-medium body
Character: Elegant, refined, extremely drinkable. Perfect for long drinking sessions.
The Kölsch-Konvention (1986)
In 1986, Cologne breweries signed the Kölsch-Konvention, an agreement that establishes:
- Only in Cologne: Kölsch can only be produced in Cologne and surroundings
- Ingredients: Pilsner barley malt, noble hops, Ale yeast, water
- Process: Top fermentation + cold maturation
- Service: 20cl Stange glass
Result: Kölsch is a protected designation (like Champagne!).
The Kölsch Breweries of Cologne
There are 24 breweries authorized to produce Kölsch. The most famous:
1. Früh Kölsch:
- The most famous and touristy
- Huge Brauhaus in the old town center
- Fresh and drinkable Kölsch
2. Gaffel Kölsch:
- Favored by locals
- Slightly more hopped
- Traditional Brauhaus
3. Reissdorf Kölsch:
- Malty, rounded
- Very popular
4. Sion Kölsch:
- Small historic brewery
- Authentic atmosphere
5. Mühlen Kölsch:
- Delicate and floral
The Kölsch Service: The Stange
Kölsch is served in a narrow cylindrical glass called "Stange" (stick) of 20cl.
Why 20cl?
- The beer always stays fresh and cold
- Encourages drinking more (fast rotation)
- Social tradition (the Köbes continuously brings beers)
The Köbes: The Traditional Waiter
In Cologne Brauhaus, the waiter is called "Köbes" and has a unique role:
- Carries a Kranz (wreath) with 10-12 Stange
- Automatically replaces empty glasses (without asking!)
- Mark on a coaster how many beers you have drunk
- A brusque but friendly attitude (part of the folklore!)
How to stop the Köbes: Place the coaster on top of the glass = "I don't want another beer"
Altbier: The Beer of Düsseldorf
What is Altbier
The Altbier ("old beer") is a top-fermented beer (Ale) matured cold, like Kölsch, but with a completely different character.
Technical features:
- Type: Top-fermented Ale, cold-conditioned
- Color: Amber-copper (20-30 EBC)
- ABV: 4.5-5.5%
- IBU: 25-50 (more pronounced bitterness than Kölsch)
- Fermentation: Top (15-20°C) + cold conditioning (0-8°C)
Sensory Profile
Appearance:
- Amber-copper, from clear to slightly hazy
- Ivory-white, compact foam
Nose:
- Malt (toasted bread, biscuit, light caramel)
- Hop (herbal, spicy, earthy)
- Fruity notes (esters from top fermentation)
Taste:
- Malty, rounded, slightly sweet
- Strong but balanced bitterness
- Dry and clean finish
- Medium body
- More robust character than Kölsch
Character: Rustic, malty, easy to drink. More body and character than Kölsch.
Why "Alt" (Old)?
The name "Altbier" comes from the fact that it is produced with the "old" method (top fermentation), as opposed to the bottom-fermented Lagers that became popular in the 1800s.
The Altbier Breweries of Düsseldorf
The 4 historic breweries of Düsseldorf:
1. Uerige:
- The most famous and respected
- Robust, hoppy, dry Altbier
- Huge Brauhaus, always crowded
- Authentic atmosphere
2. Füchschen:
- "The Little Fox"
- Balanced, malty Altbier
- Traditional Brauhaus
3. Schlüssel:
- "The Key"
- Delicate, easy-drinking Altbier
- Relaxed atmosphere
4. Schumacher:
- The oldest (1838)
- Classic, balanced Altbier
Altbier Service
Altbier is also served in 20cl glasses, but with a slightly different shape (more cylindrical and wider).
The system is identical to Cologne:
- Waiter continuously brings beers
- Mark on coaster
- Place coaster on top of glass to stop
Kölsch vs Altbier: The Comparison
| Characteristic | Kölsch (Cologne) | Altbier (Düsseldorf) |
|---|---|---|
| Color | Pale golden | Amber-copper |
| Clarity | Crystal clear | Clear/slightly hazy |
| Malt | Delicate, bread | Toasted, caramel |
| Hop | Delicate, floral | Strong, herbal |
| Bitterness | Moderate | More pronounced |
| Body | Light-medium | Medium |
| Character | Elegant, refined | Rustic, malty |
| Drinkability | Very high | Very high |
Which is better? It depends on your taste! Both are excellent and represent unique traditions.
Beer Tour Itinerary: Cologne and Düsseldorf (2 Days)
Day 1: Cologne (Kölsch)
Morning:
- Cologne Cathedral (UNESCO Heritage)
- Historic center
Lunch:
- Early at the Cathedral (Kölsch + Rhenish cuisine)
Afternoon:
- Walk along the Rhine
- Museums (Wallraf-Richartz, Ludwig)
Evening:
- Gaffel Brauhaus (authentic Kölsch)
- Pub crawl in the city center Brauhaus
Day 2: Düsseldorf (Altbier)
Morning:
- Train Cologne → Düsseldorf (30 min)
- Altstadt ("the longest bar in the world" - 260 bars in 0.5 km²!)
Lunch:
- Uerige (Altbier + Rhineland cuisine)
Afternoon:
- Rheinuferpromenade (walk along the Rhine)
- Königsallee (shopping)
Evening:
- Füchschen (Altbier)
- Schlüssel (Altbier)
- Pub crawl in the Altstadt
Food Pairings
Kölsch
- Halve Hahn: Sandwich with aged Gouda cheese
- Himmel un Ääd: Mashed potatoes with apples and black pudding
- Rheinischer Sauerbraten: Marinated beef stew
- Fish: Fried, grilled
Altbier
- Schweinshaxe: Pork knuckle
- Rheinischer Sauerbraten: Beef stew
- Aged cheeses: Gouda, Emmental
- Sausages: Bratwurst, Currywurst
Practical Tips
Budget
- Kölsch/Altbier: €2-3 per Stange (20cl)
- Meal: €15-25
- Accommodation: €60-120/night
- Daily budget: €80-150
When to Go
- Carnival (Feb-Mar): Huge party, city in frenzy
- Spring/Summer (Apr-Sep): Better weather, terraces on the Rhine
- Christmas (Dec): Beautiful Christmas markets
Label
- Don’t order Altbier in Cologne (and vice versa!)
- Accept that the Köbes/waiter brings beers automatically
- Place a coaster on your glass when you’ve had enough
- Tip: Round up (e.g., €18 → €20)
Conclusion: Two Cities, Two Beers, One Tradition
Cologne and Düsseldorf represent a unique brewing tradition in the world. Kölsch and Altbier are not just beers: they are identity, pride, and culture. The service in 20cl glasses, the Köbes who continuously brings beers, the atmosphere of the Brauhaus, and the friendly rivalry between the two cities create a beer experience you won’t find anywhere else.
Whether you prefer the elegance of Kölsch or the character of Altbier, one thing is certain: in these two Rhine cities, beer is much more than a drink. It’s a way of life.
Discover our selection of German beers on Maltese.beer and bring home the taste of the Rhine! 🍺🇩🇪
