Hitachino Nest Beer: the Japanese craft beer that changed everything
In 1823, the head of the village of Konosu, in Naka County in the historic region of Hitachi - today Ibaraki Prefecture - began producing sake. Almost two centuries later, that same company would help write the history of craft beer worldwide.
We are talking about Kiuchi Sake Brewery, now known around the world thanks to Hitachino Nest Beer: one of Japan's most iconic and recognizable craft beer brands, distinguished by the famous white owl on its label.
The Japanese craft beer boom: Kiuchi leads the way
In 1994, a revision of Japan's alcohol tax law opened the way for the first time to small-scale beer production. The result was explosive: more than 200 new breweries sprang up across the country, giving rise to a genuine craft movement.
Kiuchi was among the first to seize the opportunity. In 1996, the brewery launched Hitachino Nest Beer, a line of craft beers that over the following decades would become a benchmark not only in Japan, but also in Europe and the United States.
Nipponia: 100% Japanese beer, from field to bottle
In 2007, Kiuchi took things a step further. In collaboration with local farmers, the company recovered a variety of barley that had not been cultivated since the late 1950s and reintroduced it into beer production. This project gave rise to Nipponia: a beer made entirely with Japanese ingredients - malt, hops, and Yamada-Nishiki sake rice - that won over enthusiasts around the world.
The guiding principle is clear: "Sake production must go hand in hand with the agricultural and cultural traditions of the local area," explains Kyoshiro Imaizumi of Yasato Distillery, founded by the company in 2020.
Yasato Distillery: when beer meets whisky
In 2016, Kiuchi began experimenting with whisky production in a corner of the brewery, initially using imported malt. Three years ago, it built a dedicated malt house for processing local barley. Today, Yasato Distillery stands on a hill in the agricultural area of Ishioka, overlooking Mount Tsukuba, and is entirely dedicated to producing whisky from ingredients grown in Ibaraki Prefecture.
The technical knowledge accumulated through beer production was transferred in full to the distillery: separate mash and lauter tuns with independent temperature control, steel fermentation followed by a stage in wooden vats to develop a rich bacterial flora. Then distillation in pear-shaped stills, followed by maturation in bourbon, sherry, and - in an extraordinary detail - Japanese cherry wood barrels.
Four years ago, the first edition of Hinomaru was released (literally "the circle of the sun," like the Japanese flag): a whisky that embodies the company's philosophy. Among the versions in production, Signature 1823 - an award-winning single malt - is the one that best represents Kiuchi's history.
A production philosophy rooted in the local area
What makes Kiuchi unique is not only the quality of its products, but also the consistency of its vision: from the sake of 1823 to the craft beer of 1996, and finally to the local whisky of 2020, every product stems from a conscious choice to be rooted in the local area. Local ingredients, time-honored techniques, and respect for the climate and agricultural cycle.
"A whisky's flavor needs time to reach its full potential," says Imaizumi. "I hope our whiskies convey to the world what makes this area special."
An approach that resonates strongly in the world of craft beer: it is not so different from what the best European producers have been doing for decades. And it is precisely this universality of the craft philosophy that makes Hitachino Nest Beer so popular in Italy as well.
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