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Italian craft beer: history, spread, and characteristics

Italian craft beer is now an excellence: although in Italy the tradition of alcoholic beverages has historically been linked to wine, the brewing scene has managed to develop its own identity, combining quality ingredients, innovation of traditional styles, and a market that - despite some challenges - is growing.

It has even established its own moments of industry discussion, such as the Brewer of the Year in Florence, where we will be on January 19, the Beer & Food Attraction in Rimini, where we will be present with the Maltese stand from February 16 to 18, or the recent Best Italian Beer, organized by FederBirra. Here, the Riversa brewery from Capriano del Colle was just awarded as the best Italian craft brewery of 2024.

The recognition of the first Italian brewing style dates back to 2015 in the Beer Style Guidelines of the Beer Judge Certification Program, a tool created for sensory evaluation of beers in Homebrewer competitions, but which every year gains more credibility worldwide, also in the commercial craft beer sector, defining the stylistic guidelines of beers. Our first style is called Italian Grape Ale (or IGA) and is a unique blend of beer and wine. It is a top-fermented beer (sometimes mixed or spontaneous), enriched by the addition of grapes at various possible stages of production: during boiling, fermentation, or conditioning. The grapes can be used as fruit, pomace, or must (even cooked), giving the beer a characteristic wine aroma, with a very variable alcohol content, which can even exceed 10%. The Sardinian brewery Barley was a pioneer in this sense, with its BB10, which uses sapa, that is cooked must, of Cannonau, an innovation that combines the flavor of beer with the art of wine.

Another Italian pride came at the end of 2024, again from the States, with the recognition by the Brewers Association of the style that perhaps has the most examples even outside Italy: Italian Pils. The result of study and experimentation by Agostino Arioli, master brewer and founder of Birrificio Italiano, it was born as a hybrid between a Teutonic style and a production technique typical of England, later becoming a religion overseas. The reference style from which the brewer from Lurago Marinone started in 1996 is the German-inspired Pilsener, to which he adds hops also in the cold phase after boiling: here is the famous Dry Hopping that makes TipoPils so special. This beer, with a very fresh aromatic bouquet of freshly cut grass, with menthol, lemony, spicy, and floral hints, paved the way for many other Italian Pils around the world and is still one of the symbols of Italian beer abroad.

History of Italian craft beer: an evolution of excellence

In Italy, until the mid-19th century, beer was little known, considered a niche product, foreign to the local tradition historically linked to wine. Quality beers were imported from Northern Europe, while domestic production was limited to small artisanal workshops.

With industrialization at the end of the 19th century, craft beer production in Italy expanded rapidly, making it accessible to an increasingly broad audience. Despite slowdowns due to world conflicts and raw material shortages, the sector regained strength after the war, reaching a new consumption record in 2010, with about 28 liters per capita.

In recent decades, attention has shifted to microbreweries and brewpubs, which represent a rapidly growing reality, enhancing artisanal productions and territorial specificities.

Regulatory news and incentives for Italian craft beer

An important development for the sector came with a recent amendment to the financial maneuver, which provides for significant reductions in excise duties for small craft breweries. The main benefits include a proportional discount: 50% for breweries with production up to 10,000 hectoliters per year, 30% for production up to 30,000 hectoliters, and 20% for production up to 60,000 hectoliters.

These measures aim to promote quality and innovation, support skilled work, and enhance Made in Italy agri-food products. With production volumes mostly below 10,000 hectoliters, Italian craft breweries will benefit from significant incentives to grow and consolidate their market presence.

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