In recent decades, craft beer (or craft beer) has won the hearts of millions of enthusiasts around the world. But how did this global phenomenon begin?
To fully understand it, we need to go back in time and get to know the key players, namely the craft breweries.
Let's start from the dawn of the craft beer revolution in the United States, then explore the modern reinterpretations from countries with a long brewing tradition like Belgium and England, up to the exciting ferment that characterizes today’s Italian craft breweries.
The American roots of craft beer: Anchor Brewing and Sierra Nevada
The modern culture of craft beer was born in the United States in the 1960s and ’70s, as a response to the industrial standardization of taste. One of the first to change the rules was Fritz Maytag, who in 1965 took over Anchor Brewing in San Francisco, saving it from closure and turning it into a pioneer of independent, quality production.
In the 1980s, another important step came with Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., founded by Ken Grossman in Chico, California. Its Pale Ale – intensely hopped, aromatic, and with a slightly higher alcohol content than average – became the symbol of the American brewing revival, inspiring thousands of homebrewers and small producers to start their own craft breweries.
We could list hundreds, from Russian River to Dogfish Head, from StillWater to New Belgium, from Allagash to Jester King or Hill Farmstead… Certainly, we must mention The Alchemist Brewery by John Kimmich, who in Stowe – in Vermont, one of the most important states in the current US scene – was the first to produce an IPA so hazy, fruity, and velvety it looked like fruit juice: he started the trendiest style today, known as NEIPA, acronym for New England India Pale Ale.
Breweries in Belgium and England: tradition inspiring innovation
In Europe, the craft beer movement also found fertile ground in countries with a long brewing history, which have been able to preserve or revive their traditions and innovate without denying their roots.
In Belgium, historic names like Brasserie Dupont, Brasserie Cantillon and the famous breweries in the Trappist abbeys such as Westmalle, Chimay and Orval held strong during World War II and survived the subsequent invasion of industrial pale Lagers. Without them, it might be difficult for us to enjoy classic styles like Saison, Lambic, Dubbel, and Tripel. They have indeed been sources of inspiration for one, actually now two, new generations of brewers and breweries, able to reinterpret their creations in a more modern key. An example is Brasserie de la Senne, a symbol of the urban and independent beer revival in Brussels. Its Zinnebir and Taras Boulba have literally revolutionized the way young people in the Belgian capital drink beer.
Also in England, home of Real Ale, some historic producers like Samuel Smith's Brewery, Timothy Taylor’s Brewery and St. Peter's Brewery have helped keep traditional techniques and recipes alive, while also influencing the new British craft scene, now among the most lively and experimental.
Italian craft breweries: from pioneers to leading players
In Italy, the craft beer revolution began in the 1990s, thanks to visionary figures like Teo Musso of Birrificio Baladin, Agostino Arioli of Birrificio Italiano and the guys from Lambrate in Milan. These pioneers started out with passion and a bit of madness, but over the years they have combined study, creativity, territory, and quality, paving the way for hundreds of microbreweries.
A fundamental chapter is represented by Birrificio Barley, among the first to experiment with Italian Grape Ale (IGA), a link between beer and wine that is typically Italian and now recognized internationally.
In recent years, the Italian craft brewery scene has been enriched by eclectic and innovative names like Ritual Lab, Birrificio WAR, Birra Gaia, Brewfist, Eastside Brewing and many others who, besides producing classic styles, experiment with extreme hopping, hybrid fermentations, and barrel aging. These names represent the forefront of a mature, ever-evolving movement, capable of standing tall alongside the global giants of craft beer.
A world in ferment, a world to discover
The story of craft breweries is a story of passion, resilience, and rediscovery of roots. From Californian garages to breweries in the Italian countryside, the common thread is the love for authentic beer, made with care and creativity. Whether you are new to this world or have been passionate for a long time, today more than ever on Maltese you have the opportunity to explore a vast and fascinating world… one sip at a time!
